U.S. Premiere for MINI's $52,000 Goodwood Edition and Coupe Model at Pebble Beach

This week's Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance in California is gearing up to be an important event for car enthusiasts as a respectable number of automakers are planning to use the show to unveil their latest products.While the BMW Group's MINI division won't have anything we haven’t seen before, nevertheless, it will use the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance to hold the U.S. debut of the "Mini Inspired by Goodwood" and the all-new Coupe.

The special edition "Mini Inspired by Goodwood", which is in fact inspired by Rolls-Royce, will carry a base price of $52,000 (including $700 D&H), when advanced orders begin later this month.

The company said it will be produced in a limited edition of 1,000 units, 140 of which will be available to US customers with first deliveries expected in the second quarter of 2012.

Among other features, the special edition Mini sports an exclusive Rolls-Royce Diamond Black metallic finish, which can be replaced by a Reef Blue metallic, and 17-inch light alloy wheels.

Inside, you'll find materials and trims used on Rolls-Royce models such as the Lounge leather seats, Lambswool floor mats, cashmere headliner, fascia and front door grab handles in burr walnut veneer and the sports steering wheel with Walknappa leather and Piano Black controls.

The MINI Inspired by Goodwood is offered exclusively with a 1.6-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine generating 181HP hooked up to either six-speed manual or automatic transmissions.

The second MINI model to make its U.S. premiere is the new Coupe that can be ordered with a choice of three 1.6-liter engines delivering 208HP in the John Cooper Work model, 181HP in the Cooper S and 121HP in the Cooper.

The most potent version, the JCW, is the fastest-accelerating production MINI ever with a 0-60 mph time of 6.1 sec and has the highest top speed at 149 mph.

The strictly two-seater model is available for order in the States now with starting prices ranging from $22,000 to $31,900, based on engine option.

Bentley Defies Crisis with a 20% Increase in Global Sales

Crisis? What crisis? For you and me, perhaps, but not for Bentley buyers. The VW-owned British luxury carmaker announced today a 20% increase in global sales for the first half of 2011 with 2,978 cars delivered to customers, the best start for the company since 2008.The luxury marque attributes this surge in sales to the high demand for the new Continental GTas well as the increasing popularity in (least we forget, communist…) China, where Bentley sales have risen by 57% compared to the same period last year, to 680 cars. Thus, it has become the manufacturer’s second best market, behind only the US (George Orwell's "Animal Farm", anyone?).

Not to be outdone by China, the capitalist West has contributed its fair, albeit smaller, share to Bentley’s rise. In Europe, sales have increased by 25% (494 cars) and in the USA by 23% (907 cars). Only in Japan, due to the recent catastrophic natural disasters, and the Middle East, where political unrest rules, have sales declined.

So, well done Bentley - and well done to all the fat cats out there, be they…capitalists or…communists, who are rapidly increasing in numbers each day.

My mechanic says my suspension is not adjustable. Does that mean the wheels can't be aligned?

No, it simply means the vehicle manufacturer was too cheap to design adjustable suspension components when it engineered your car. When a car maker designs a car, engineers and accountants scrutinize each and every component to figure out how they can reduce manufacturing and assembly costs. If a few cents can be saved by leaving out an adjustable camber bolt, caster shim or whatever, they'll do it. They may have great faith in their own ability to build a vehicle that never needs to be aligned or fixed, but we all know from experience that such notions are untrue. So even though a suspension is nonadjustable and shouldn't require any corrections, that doesn't necessarily make it so. Even brand new vehicles can roll off the assembly line with wheels that don't meet their own alignment criteria.

Fortunately, the aftermarket has come up with ways to correct the "mistakes" of the vehicle manufacturers. If the car maker doesn't include provisions for adjusting the suspension, it creates an opportunity for some aftermarket part's supplier to come up with means of making such adjustments possible. These include offset bushings, shims, wedges and other alignment aids. So even though your suspension may have few if any adjustments for things like camber, caster and rear toe (front toe is adjustable on all cars and trucks), there are probably aftermarket alignment aids that allow at least some limited corrections to be made on nonadjustable suspensions.

How much air should I put in my tires?

It depends on the vehicle application, the size of the tires, how much weight is on the tires, and whether fuel economy is more important to you than a smooth ride.

Listed in the owner's manual or on a decal in the glovebox or door jamb in every vehicle are the recommended inflation pressures from the vehicle manufacturer. For most passenger cars, minivans and minipickups, the recommendations range from 27 to 32 psi. For fullsize pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles, the recommended inflation pressures tend to be about 5 to 8 psi higher to reflect the larger tire sizes and greater weight of these vehicles.

It's important to note that the recommended inflation pressures may differ for the front and rear tires.

The manufacturer's recommendations are not necessarily the optimum inflation pressure for your tires, but are generally the best for all-round driving. Adding a couple of extra pounds of pressure will decrease the rolling resistance of the tires and make a slight improvement in fuel economy -- but it will also make the tires harder which in turn may cause a somewhat rougher or harsher ride.

If you're carrying a lot of extra cargo, car pooling, hauling a lot of stuff in the back of a pickup or towing a trailer, a few extra pounds of pressure would be recommended to offset the added weight. Add the extra pounds to the rear tires.

WARNING: Never exceed the maximum inflation pressure specified on the sidewall of the tire. This number is the maximum pressure the tire is designed to safely handle. Higher pressure increases the risk of tire damage (when hitting a bump) or tire failure.

Why Check?

All tires leak a little air over time, with some losing up to half a pound a month. If you're losing more air than this, you probably have a leak (possibly a rim leak or a porosity leak in an alloy wheel). For this reason, tire pressure should be checked at least once a month -- and certainly before taking a long trip or driving at sustained highway speeds.

Underinflated or overinflated tires can wear unevenly. Underinflation also increases tread wear dramatically.

WARNING: Underinflation may also increase the risk of tire failure or a blowout. When a tire with too little air in it (say 12 to 18 lbs.) is driven at highway speeds, the sidewalls are forced to flex excessively. This builds up a lot of heat in the tire which may cause it to fail.

How To Check

Recommended tire inflation pressures are always for COLD tires, which means you should check the tires in the morning before the vehicle has been driven. Driving heats up the tires and causes the air inside to expand. If you check the tires right after driving, therefore, the readings will be at least several pounds higher than normal.

Internal tire pressure will also vary with the ambient (outside) air temperature. Hot weather raises air pressure inside the tires, while cold weather lowers it. So air may have to be added or vented from the tire to compensate for seasonal variations as well.

Use an accurate tire gauge to check your tires. Don't rely on the built-in gauge on a gas station air hose or compressor (which tend to be very inaccurate). And never rely on your eyeballs alone to "judge" the amount of pressure in your tires. The sidewalls on radial tires typically bulge quite a bit even when the tire is properly inflated. If you keep adding air until the bulge is gone, the tire will be seriously overinflated. Likewise, don't wait until the tire is nearly flat to add air. It's nearly impossible to tell the difference between a tire that has 10 lbs. of air from one that has 20 lbs. of air. Use a gauge to check the tires regularly, and add or vent air as needed to keep the pressure within a couple of pounds of the amount recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

NOTE: Tire inflation pressure should be more or less equal side-to-side. A difference of more than a couple of pounds may be enough to cause a noticeable steering or brake pull.

Why are almost all tires today radial ply tires?

Because radial ply tires are better than bias ply tires.

The belts are layers of woven reinforcing fiber inside the tire under the tread. The belts give the tire strength, keep the tread from squirming and help resist punctures. The belts may be fiberglass, steel, nylon, rayon or aramid fiber.

In bias ply tires, which were common before radials were invented, the innermost plies crisscross like an "X" as they run from bead to bead (side to side), while the outermost plies run lengthwise around the circumference of the tire. This makes a relatively firm tread, but it also increases rolling resistance. And anything that increases rolling resistance increases fuel consumption.

The innermost plies in radial tires, by comparison, run sideways between the beads. This makes the tire more flexible, which reduces rolling resistance and improves fuel economy. Changing from bias ply to radial ply tires can improve fuel economy 10 to 15%, so that's the main reason why most tires today are radials.

The increased flexibility of radial tires also helps improve traction and cornering. Because the tire is more flexible, it is better able to maintain tread contact when cornering. This also allows lower aspect ratio tires (shorter sidewalls) which provide better handling performance.

What are all-season, asymmetrical and directional tires?

Essentially an all-season tire is a tire with a slightly aggressive tread pattern that provides good year-round wet and dry traction characteristics. It tends to be a bit harsher and louder than ordinary tires, but not as harsh or loud as a snow tire.

Some all-season as well as performance tires have a "directional" tread pattern. Directional tires have a "one-way" tread pattern that are optimized for the direction the tires rotate on the car. They must therefore be mounted on either the left or right side. Little arrows or triangles on the sidewall indicate which way the tire is supposed to turn. The tread blocks and grooves are angled to optimize handling. They also do a good job of channeling water out from under the tire on wet surfaces to reduce hydroplaning and improve wet traction. Directional tires can be rotated front-to-rear but cannot be rotated side-to-side.

Another variation in tread design you'll see is "asymmetrical" tires. Tires with an asymmetrical design mix tread patterns or put more rubber on one side of the tread than the other in an effort to make one tire out of two different tread patterns. Some combine a slick-like smooth tread on half the tire (to improve traction) with a block pattern on the other half (for directional stability).

When I'm driving down the highway, my car wants to pull to one side. How come?

A steady steering pull or "lead" to one side may have any of a number of causes. The most likely cause is wheel misalignment. This may be due to rear wheel toe or axle misalignment, front wheel camber misalignment, too much cross camber or caster alignment (more than a degree of difference side to side), or someone having "aligned" the front wheels without the steering wheel being properly centered beforehand. In any event, it will probably be necessary to have the alignment checked to diagnose and correct the problem -- unless one of the following is causing the pull:

An underinflated front tire on one side. Check tire pressures and make sure they are the same side-to-side (no more than a couple of pounds of difference).

Mismatched tires. Tires of different size, aspect ratio or even tread pattern on one side can create enough of a difference in rolling resistance to cause a pull.

A weak or sagging spring. Measure and compare ride height on both sides of your vehicle (measure at the fender openings). If one side is an inch or more lower than the other side, chances are you have a spring that needs to be shimmed or replaced.

A dragging brake. This can be caused by a frozen or sticking disc brake caliper that doesn't allow the pads to kick back out from the rotor or weak or broken return springs in a drum brake that don't pull the shoes back from the drum. Another possibility here might be a packing brake that isn't fully releasing on one side.

An uneven load. If you, your significant other or a passenger is causing your vehicle to lean to one side, it can cause the steering to lead in that direction. Don't laugh, a few hundred extra pounds can make a big difference in a small vehicle -- especially if the weight isn't evenly distributed side-to-side. If you can't do anything about the extra weight, it is often possible to compensate by having the wheels realigned with a "simulated" load positioned in the vehicle. Of course, then your vehicle may lead in the opposite direction if the extra weight is removed.

Excessive road crown. Roads are usually sloped (crowned) from the center towards the sides for drainage. If you spend a lot of time driving on highly crowned roads and find the constant lead to the outside shoulder annoying, you can have the wheels realigned to compensate for the excessive crown. Adding or subtracting camber from one wheel or the other to create a difference in the cross camber alignment of your front wheels can counteract this kind of problem.

Do my wheels need to be realigned after the struts have been replaced?

On most vehicles they do. Here's why:

MacPherson struts are more than overgrown shock absorbers. They're an integral part of your vehicle's suspension. They replace the upper control arms and ball joints and serve as the steering pivots for the front wheels. When the strut assembly is unbolted and removed from the vehicle, the original alignment of the suspension is lost -- unless the position of the camber bolts and upper strut plate are first marked so they can be reinstalled in exactly the same position as before. But this only works if the same original strut is being put back into the car. If the strut is being replaced because it is leaking, damaged or worn out, the dimensions of the new strut will usually vary enough to cause a change in wheel alignment. So wheel alignment should at least be checked to see if adjustment is necessary (which it usually is).

On some import cars, the struts are "rebuildable." The housing has a removable nut that allows the old guts inside to be dumped out and a new cartridge installed. On these vehicles, it should not be necessary to realign the wheels after rebuilding the strut.

I'm buying a new set of tires. Should I have them balanced?

Yes. Balancing helps to guarantee a smooth ride at highway speeds, and it helps to maximize tire life. An out-of-balance tire can be very annoying because it produces a shake that increases in intensity the faster you go. The up-and-down shaking of the wheel is hard on the suspension, not to mention your nerves, and also increases tread wear. An out-of-balance tire can develop a cupped wear pattern. So do yourself and your tires a favor and have them balanced.

Almost all service facilities and tire stores today use an off-car electronic spin balancer to balance the wheels. The tire and wheel are mounted on the balancer, then spun to find any heavy spots on the wheel. The balancer then indicates where weights (and how much weight) need to be placed to counterbalance the heavy spot.

Off-car spin balancers actually check two kinds of balance, "static" and "dynamic." Static imbalance causes a wheel to shake up and down as it spins, so static balance is achieved when both halves of the tire wheel assembly weigh exactly the same. Dynamic imbalance causes a tire and wheel to shake back and forth or sideways as it spins. Dynamic balance is achieved when the front and back sides of the wheel and tire weigh the same.

How often do I really need to have my wheels aligned?

Once. If the wheels on your vehicle are correctly aligned when the vehicle is manufactured at the factory, they should not change alignment until something in the suspension wears out or is damaged. Alignment doesn't change. The only thing that changes it is wear or damage. Hitting a pot hole or a thousand pot holes won't knock your suspension out of alignment unless you hit something hard enough to actually bend metal. That really doesn't happen very often, so having the wheels aligned periodically is a waste of money.

On the other hand, there are valid reasons for having the alignment checked periodically:

• If your tires are wearing abnormally, alignment should be checked to find out why. Chances are something is amiss and needs to be readjusted or replaced. It only takes a 1/8 inch of toe misalignment to drag the front tires sideways the equivalent of 28 feet for every mile traveled!
• If you're buying a new set of tires and want to maximize tread life, it's a good idea to have the alignment checked as insurance. Even if the factory alignment is within the acceptable range specified by the vehicle manufacturer, there's often room for improvement. Resetting alignment to the "preferred specs" (which means the midrange or optimum specs) will usually extend tire life -- sometimes significantly. Considering the high cost of many performance tires today, assuring maximum tire life with an alignment is money well spent.
• If you're experiencing any kind of steering or handling problem, an alignment check may be necessary for diagnostic purposes. An important aspect of aligning the wheels is performing a preliminary alignment inspection of the suspension and steering linkage. This is necessary to determine if there are any worn, damaged or mislocated parts. It's impossible to realign worn or damaged parts so any such parts must be replaced before the wheels can be realigned.
• Wheel alignment is also required when certain suspension and steering components are replaced. On most cars with MacPherson struts, the front wheels should be realigned if the struts are replaced (NOTE: This is not necessary on certain import vehicles that have replaceable strut cartridges). Alignment is also required if the tie rods, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering links, control arms or control arm bushings, steering knuckle or steering rack have been replaced.
• Another benefit of having the wheels aligned is to assure optimum handling and traction for driving safety. Camber, in particular, is a very important angle with respect to keeping the tire's treads in full contact with the road. Tires that lean in or out ride on the shoulder and reduce traction, cornering ability and tread life. Camber can even affect braking. Uneven camber or caster side to side can make a vehicle lead to the left or the right.

What's the difference between a U-joint and a constant velocity (CV) joint?

A U-joint (the "U" stands for "Universal"), which is also called a "Cardan" joint after the guy who invented it, is a type of flexible coupling typically used on both ends of the driveshafts in rear-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles. Each U-joint consists of a four-legged center cross with needle bearing cups on the ends of each leg of the cross. The bearing cups on one pair of legs are mounted to the driveshaft. The other pair of cups are held in place by a pair of U-bolts attached to a yoke that mates to either the transmission or differential. The bearing cups allow the joint to swivel and bend as the driveshaft follows the motions of the differential and axle as the suspension bounces up and down.

Most original equipment U-joints on newer vehicles are "sealed" and do not require periodic greasing. But many replacement U-joints as well as the U-joints on older vehicles do have a grease fitting which allows the joint to be lubed periodically.

Cv Joints

A constant velocity (CV) joint does essentially the same thing as a U-joint, only better. There are two basic types: "ball-and groove" CV joints (called "Rzeppa" joints after the guy who invented them), and "tripod" CV joints.

Rzeppa CV joints, which are used as the outer joints on most front-wheel drive cars and minivans, consist of a cup-shaped outer housing, a center race and cage assembly. Machined into the outer housing and center race are six grooves that hold six steel balls. The balls are held in position by windows or slots cut into the cage assembly. The joint is designed so that when it bends, the balls are always positioned at the midway point inside the joint. This eliminates the cyclic variations in speed that a U-joint experiences when it operates at more than a few degrees off-center.

A variation on the Rzeppa CV joint is the "cross-groove" CV joint. It also has six balls between an inner race and outer housing. But this type of joint is designed to move or plunge in and out to compensate for changes in driveshaft length that occur as the suspension moves up and down. This type of joint is used as the inboard CV joint on many European and Japanese front-wheel drive cars.

The tripod style of CV joint consists of a three-legged cross or trunnion with roller bearings on the end of each leg. The trunnion is attached to the driveshaft, and the roller bearings run in machined grooves or channels in an outer "tulip" housing. This type of joint is also designed to plunge in and out, and is used as the inner CV joint on most domestic front-wheel drive vehicles. There are also some Japanese and European front-wheel drive cars that use a tripod-style joint as the outer joint.

All CV joints are enclosed by a rubber or hard plastic boot. The boot keeps grease in and contaminants out. CV joints do not require periodic maintenance or greasing, and are engineered to last 100,000 miles or more.

All front-wheel drive cars and minivans have four CV joints: one inner joint and one outer joint on each of the vehicle's two driveshafts (which are also called "halfshafts"). CV joints are also used on the driveshafts of some rear-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles, too.

Why do front-wheel drive cars and minivans have CV joints instead of ordinary U-joints?

U-joints are not used with front-wheel drive (FWD) because they produce cyclic vibrations when operated at more than a few degrees off-center. A U-joint will cause a change in speed between the driving and driven shafts whenever the joint operates at an angle. As the operating angle of the joint increases, the speed (velocity) of the driven shaft starts to vary during each revolution. And the greater the operating angle, the greater the variation in speed of the driven shaft.

The driven shaft still turns at the same number of revolutions per minute as the shaft that's driving it, but because of the geometry of the U-joint the speed of the driven shaft alternately increases (accelerates) and decreases (decelerates) four times every revolution -- which causes the vibrations we're talking about.

This isn't a concern in a rear-wheel drive application because the U-joints on the ends of the driveshaft are positioned 180 degrees to one another to cancel out vibrations. What's more, both U-joints always operate at the same angle. But in a front-wheel drive application, the outer joint may have to operate at an angle of up to 45 degrees when the wheels are steered. This is too much of a difference between the inner and outer joints angles for U-joints to handle. So constant velocity (CV) joints are required.

Unlike a U-joint, a CV joint always drives the output shaft at the same speed as the input shaft regardless of the operating angle of the joint. Therefore, it doesn't make any difference if the inner and outer joints operate at different angles.

Joint Geometry

In a U-joint, the four-point center cross attaches at two points on either yoke. When the joint is bent, two of the arms on the center cross travel in one elliptical path while the other two arms follow a different elliptical path. This is what causes the speed variations that result in vibration. It's hard to visualize, but that's what happens.

CV joints handle joint angularity differently. The six balls inside a "Rzeppa" style CV joint are positioned so they always travel in a circular path exactly half way between the joint angle. A circular path keeps velocity constant while an elliptical path causes changes in velocity. So that's the inside scoop on why U-joints won't work in FWD applications.

Why are CV joints so expensive to replace?

There are two reasons why: parts and labor. New CV joints typically cost anywhere from $65 to $150 or more depending on the application. A CV joint has a lot of metal and precision-machined components so manufacturing and tooling costs are high.

NOTE: You can save some money by going with a rebuilt joint, but it's still going to cost $35 to $90 and may not hold up as well as a brand new joint (durability varies greatly depending on the rebuilding procedure used: some joints are overhauled using oversized components to compensate for wear while others are remachined to restore like-new tolerances).

Labor (unless you're replacing the joint yourself) is the other factor that adds to the cost of replacement. CV joints are mounted on the ends of the driveshafts located between the transaxle and wheels in a front-wheel drive car. To replace a joint, the driveshaft must be removed from the car. This, in turn, requires removing the wheel, removing a large hub nut that holds the outer end of the driveshaft in the wheel hub, disconnecting the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle so the end of the driveshaft can be pushed back through the hub, and disconnecting the inner end of the driveshaft from the transaxle.

With the proper tools and a hoist, a skilled mechanic can usually remove a shaft in an hour or less. But most shops charge according to a "flat rate" system based on "average" labor times published in a manual. These times are established by the vehicle manufacturers and/or the flat rate manual publishers. Most good mechanics can easily beat the flat rate times, and earn themselves a commission on the difference. Unfortunately, you still pay the same as if it took them the full amount of time to complete the job. Hey, nobody said life was fair.

My mechanic tells me my front-wheel drive (FWD) car has a bad outer CV joint. He says the shaft has to be replaced. Isn't there a less expensive way t

Time is money in the auto repair business. It's much faster and easier for a mechanic to replace the entire driveshaft assembly with both joints on it than to mess around replacing a CV joint on your old driveshaft. Removing the old CV joint from the shaft, disassembling and inspecting the other CV joint on the shaft to make sure it is still good, reassembling and repacking both joints with grease and installing the boots and clamps is a messy and time-consuming job. So that's why your mechanic is trying to give you the "shaft." He isn't trying to cheat you. He's only trying to save himself some time and effort.

The cost of replacement shafts for most FWD cars today has dropped to the point where a complete shaft assembly with new or remanufactured CV joints costs little more (or in some cases no more!) than a brand new replacement joint. That's why most mechanics have gone to swapping shafts instead of replacing individual CV joints.

When the shaft is changed, your old shaft and joints are exchanged for the replacement shaft. Your old shaft is then returned to a company that specializes in shaft rebuilding. Your old shaft is then rebuilt using new or remanufactured joints. The shaft then goes back into the parts distribution pipeline and is sold to the next person who needs one. That's how the system works. It's recycling in action, and it actually saves consumers a lot of money.

If you're pinching pennies and/or don't plan to keep your car for a long time, you can save some money by asking for a shaft with remanufactured, rather than new, joints. The warranty won't be as good, and the joints may not last as long as brand new ones, but you get what you pay for.

Shafts for import vehicles typically cost about 30% more than those for domestic vehicles because there are more different designs of import shafts and joints (some of which can be very difficult and expensive to obtain).

My front-wheel drive car makes a clicking sound when turning. Is anything wrong?

Yes. A clicking sound when turning is one of the classic symptoms of a worn or damaged "constant velocity" (CV) joint. Your car has four such joints on the two front axles: two inboard joints and two outboard joints. The outboard joints are the ones that make a clicking sound when they go bad.

Inside the joint are six steel balls, positioned in grooves between an inner race and an outer housing. The balls are held in position by a cage that looks something like a wide bracelet with windows or slots cut in it. When the joint is new, the balls fit tightly into the cage windows. But as the joint accumulates miles, the cage windows become worn and allow the balls to rattle around. The grooves in the inner race and outer housing also wear, which further contributes to noise.

When driving straight, a worn CV joint is usually quiet (constant noise would indicate a bad wheel bearing or other problem). But when the wheels are turned to either side, the joint bends causing the balls to click as they slide around in their cage windows and grooves. The noise is usually loudest when backing up with the wheels turned. Repacking the joint with grease won't help because the joint is worn and needs to be replaced.

The "normal" life of a CV joint is usually 100,000 miles or more. But a joint can fail prematurely if the rubber boot that surrounds it is damaged or develops a leak.

Cv Joint Boots

The boot, which is made of rubber or hard plastic, serves two purposes: it keeps the joint's vital supply of special grease inside, and it keeps dirt and water out. After five or six years of service, it's not unusual for the boot to develop age cracks or splits. Boots can also be damaged by road hazards or a careless tow truck operator who uses J-hooks to tow your vehicle.

Once the boot seal is broken, the inside grease quickly leaks out. Starved for lubrication, the CV joint soon fails. Dirt and water can also enter the boot and contaminate any grease that's left inside. Either way, a damaged boot is bad news for the joint.

CV joint boots should be inspected periodically (when the oil is changed is a good time) to make sure they are not cracked or torn, and that the clamps are tight. If you see grease on the outside of the boot, it is leaking and needs to be replaced (the sooner the better). If a clamp is loose and the boot is leaking grease at one end, the clamp needs to be replaced.

Original equipment boots are a one-piece design, which means the driveshaft and CV joint have to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled to replace a bad boot. However, there are aftermarket "split-boots" designed for easy do-it-yourself installation. The split-boots eliminate the need to remove and disassemble the joint and driveshaft. You simply cut off the old boot, clean out as much of the old grease as possible from the joint, pack the joint with fresh high temperature CV joint grease (never ordinary chassis grease), then install the new boot. Most split-boots have a seam that is glued together. The seam must not have any grease smeared on it and the glue must be applied carefully for a good seal. Also, the vehicle must not be driven until the glue has cured (about an hour or so).

NOTE: Most professional mechanics do not use split-boots because (1) they don't think a split-boot is as reliable or as long-lived as a one-piece original equipment style boot, and (2) they don't like the idea of installing a new boot on a questionable joint.

By the time a damaged or leaky boot is noticed, the joint has usually lost most of its grease and/or been contaminated by dirt. Unless the joint is removed, disassembled, cleaned and inspected, there's no way to know if it is still in good enough condition to remain in service. If it's making noise, replacing the boot would be a waste of time because the joint is bad and needs to be replaced (most new joints come with a new boot, clamps and grease). But even if the joint isn't making any noise, it may still have wear or internal damage that will soon cause it to fail.

WARNING: A CV joint failure can cause loss of steering control under certain circumstances. If the joint locks up, it can prevent the wheels from being turned.

Can I get into trouble if I disconnect any of the emission controls on my engine?

Yes, if you get caught. No, if you don't. But if you live in an area that requires periodic emissions testing, you probably won't get past an emissions check with missing or disconnected emission controls.

WARNING: Federal law makes it illegal for ANYONE to tamper with, disconnect, remove or otherwise render inoperative ANY emissions-related control device. The Environmental Protection Agency and most states have actually been rather lax about enforcing this rule on motorists, but they haven't hesitated to nail professional service facilities that have been guilty of tampering. Even so, the fines can be hefty. A violation may make you liable for up to a $2,500 fine!

No Tampering

The federal anti-tampering law does not, however, apply to race cars that are not operated on the street, other full-time off-road vehicles, show cars that are not street driven, or vehicles not factory equipped with emission controls (most 1967 and earlier vehicles). So that exempts all antique cars, and most classic cars and muscle cars.

Revisions to the Clean Air Act in 1990 further broadened the definition of emissions tampering to include virtually ANY type of engine or exhaust system modification that alters what comes out the tailpipe. That means any nonstock aftermarket part that is installed on your engine must be EPA-approved and emissions legal (except on the exempt vehicles previously noted).

Before the law was revised in 1990, it was only illegal for professional mechanics to remove or disconnect emission control devices. There was nothing to prevent a motorist from tampering with their own vehicles. That loophole has since been plugged.

What Is Emissions-legal?

Any of the following may be considered emissions tampering and get you into trouble:

• Removing the EGR valve or plugging its vacuum lines
• Removing or disconnecting the PCV valve
• Removing the stock air cleaner and heat riser duct plumbing
• Removing the catalytic converter
• Removing or disconnecting the air pump
• Removing or modifying the stock distributor vacuum advance/retard
• Altering the stock ignition advance mechanism or timing curve
• Replacing the stock distributor with an aftermarket unit that is not emissions certified
• Modifying, removing or replacing the stock computer or PROM chip with a non-certified component
• Blocking the heat riser duct under the intake manifold
• Knocking out the filler restrictor on the fuel tank inlet pipe
• Replacing the stock non-vented gas cap with a vented cap
• Removing or disconnecting the fuel vapor recovery canister
• Changing the idle mixture or stock carburetor jetting
• Removing or modifying the carburetor choke
• Modifying or replacing the carburetor accelerator pump with non-certified components
• Installing an intake manifold or racing manifold that lacks provisions for the stock EGR valve and/or a heat riser duct
• Installing a carburetor that lacks the stock emission hookups
• Installing non-certified fuel injectors
• Installing a long duration "racing" cam that is not emissions-certified
• Installing exhaust headers that lack provisions for a heat riser valve, an air cleaner preheat stove or fittings for an oxygen sensor (if required)
• Installing valve covers with open breathers or no fittings for a PCV valve
• Installing any induction, fuel or ignition system component that is NOT emissions legal

Aftermarket parts manufacturers who make nonstock performance parts for engines, the fuel, ignition or exhaust systems must apply for special certification for any parts they want to sell as being emissions-legal. The California Air Resources Board (CARB) has been the leading government body in this respect, so most submit their proposals to CARB.

First, they must submit detailed proof in the form of laboratory dyno test that document their part does not have an adverse effect on exhaust emissions. These tests are very expensive and must conform with specified test procedures. CARB then reviews the data and may or may not ask for additional information and/or testing. If the product meets CARB's criteria, CARB issues an "executive order" (EO) number (also called an "exemption" number) certifying that the part is in compliance with the applicable clean air rules.

An EO number means the component can be legally manufactured, distributed, sold and installed on a street driven vehicle in the state of California. It also means the component is legally acceptable in all 50 states because the federal Environmental Protection Agency also recognizes the CARB exemption program as meeting their "Memorandum 1A" requirements for certifying emissions legal parts.

Buying Emissions-legal Parts

Virtually all stock replacement parts are emissions-legal regardless of who makes them. But if you're buying any nonstock performance parts, heed the following to make sure you're "safe" from an emissions standpoint:

* Look for wording on the box that says the product is emissions legal or emissions certified for street use in compliance with the EPA and/or CARB rules.

* Look for the EO (executive order) exemption number issued by the California Air Resources Board on the box, product or in the catalog. Remember, the product must have an EO number to be street legal.

* If there is no EO number and one is required to be street-legal, it cannot be legally installed on a street-driven vehicle. Period.

I see blue smoke in my exhaust when I start my engine. Is this anything I should worry about?

Yes, because your engine is burning oil. That, in turn, means your engine has worn valve guides, piston rings An engine that burns a lot of oil (more than a quart in 500 miles) is an engine that needs to be overhauled. Normal oil consumption should be a quart or less in 1500 miles. Most newer engines consume less than half a quart of oil between oil changes (every 3000 miles). So if your engine is burning oil, it's essentially worn out and needs to be repaired.

Because the cost of overhauling or replacing an engine often exceeds the value of an older car or truck, many people will just keep on driving a "mosquito fogger" in spite of the blue clouds of smoke it leaves behind. Never mind the pollution it causes, oil is cheaper than a new or rebuilt engine they reason. That philosophy may be okay if you live out in the sticks somewhere. But in urban areas that require periodic vehicle emissions testing, an engine that's burning oil usually won't pass the test because of excessive hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. You may get by on a waiver after you've spent some money (in vain) on a tune-up, but the fact remains you're still a polluter.

An engine that burns a lot of oil will also eventually foul the spark plugs. Thick, black oily deposits build up on the plugs until they cease to fire. Then the engine misfires and loses power. Cleaning or changing the plugs may temporarily solve the problem, but sooner or later they'll foul out again.

Forget about "miracle" oil additives or pills that claim to stop oil burning. They don't. Better to save your money and put it towards a valve job and new set of rings.

What kinds of emissions should I be concerned about?

All emissions if you're serious about clean air -- or at least worried you won't pass an emissions test. Most emission testing programs to date only check for only two pollutants: carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC). In areas that have the new "enhanced" I/M 240 emissions testing program, they also check for oxides of nitrogen (NOX) and the operation of your "evaporative emissions" control system (the system that captures and holds vapors from your fuel tank).

Carbon Monoxide (co)

Of the three main pollutants, carbon monoxide is the deadliest because you can't see it or smell it. A concentration of only half a percent (0.5%) CO in the air can render a person unconscious -- and kill within 10 to 15 minutes! Even concentrations as small as four hundredths of a percent (0.04%) can cause headaches and be life threatening after several hours exposure.

WARNING: Never run an engine inside an enclosed garage, not even for a few minutes. The fumes can build up quickly and overcome you before you realize what's happening. Carbon monoxide is invisible and odorless so you can't really tell when it's around.

Carbon monoxide is formed when the fuel mixture is rich and there is insufficient oxygen to completely burn all the fuel. The richer the fuel mixture, the greater the quantity of CO produced. So high CO emissions indicate incomplete combustion typically caused by carburetor maladjustment, a clogged air filter, sticking choke, defective heated air intake system, plugged PCV valve, faulty oxygen sensor, excessive fuel pressure or a fuel injection metering problem.

Carbon monoxide production is highest when the engine is first started because the fuel mixture is richer than normal during this time and the catalytic converter has not yet reached operating temperature.

Carbon monoxide emissions are minimized by maintaining a balanced to slightly lean fuel mixture. This requires careful adjustment of the carburetor idle mixture screws (which may have "limiter caps" to limit the amount of adjustment or are covered with plugs to prevent tampering). On some fuel injected engines, there is also an adjustment for the idle mixture (but it is usually factory sealed to prevent tampering). The fuel mixture is further balanced by the oxygen sensor and computer system. Most of the carbon monoxide that is produced by the engine is converted into carbon dioxide (CO2) by the catalytic converter.

Hydrocarbons (hc)

Hydrocarbon emissions are unburned gasoline and oil vapors. Though not directly harmful, they are a major contributor to smog and ozone pollution (which are toxic). Hydrocarbons in the atmosphere react with sunlight and break down to form other chemical compounds that irritate the eyes, nasal passages, throat and lungs.

HC emissions, which are usually measured in parts per million (PPM), can go up as a result of ignition misfiring (a fouled plug or bad plug wire), "lean" misfiring (incorrect carburetor idle adjustment or vacuum leaks that creates a lean mixture that misfires), loss of compression (such as a burned or leaky exhaust valve), or engine wear that causes the engine to burn oil (worn valve guides, rings and/or cylinders).

Hydrocarbon emissions are controlled by maintaining the fuel mixture so it is neither too lean nor too rich to ignite, by keeping the combustion chamber tightly sealed (good rings and valves), and by maintaining the ignition system (changing the plugs periodically). HC that is produced in the engine is reburned in the catalytic converter and changed into water vapor and carbon dioxide.

Oxides Of Nitrogen (nox)

Nitrogen makes up about 78% of the air we breathe. Though normally inert and not directly involved in the combustion process, combustion temperatures above 2500 degrees F cause nitrogen and oxygen to combine and form various compounds called "oxides of nitrogen," which is abbreviated NOX. This mostly occurs when the engine is under load and the throttle is open wide.

NOX is a nasty pollutant both directly and indirectly. In concentrations as small as a few parts per million, it can cause eye, nose and lung irritations, headaches and irritability. Higher concentrations can cause bronchitis and aggravate other lung disorders. Once in the atmosphere, it reacts with oxygen to form ozone (which is also toxic to breathe) and smog.

To reduce the formation of NOX, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) is used. By recirculating a small amount of exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to dilute the air/fuel mixture, EGR has a "cooling" effect on combustion, thus keeping temperatures below the NOX formation threshold.

On 1981 and later engines with computerized engine controls, a special "three-way" catalytic converter is used to reduce NOX in the exhaust. The first chamber of the converter contains a special "reduction" catalyst that breaks NOX down into oxygen and nitrogen. The second chamber contains the "oxidation" catalyst that reburns CO and HC.

High NOX emissions are almost always due to a defective EGR valve (or some component that controls the operation of the EGR valve). A related symptom that usually occurs when EGR is lost is spark knock (detonation) during acceleration.

Evaporative Emissions

The fuel vapors that evaporate from your fuel tank can be another source of smog and ozone pollution. So fuel systems for the past twenty years have been sealed to prevent the loss of vapors.

Some venting of the tank must be provided so it can "breathe" during temperature changes and when the engine is running, so this is provided by hoses connected to a charcoal filled canister usually located in the engine compartment. The charcoal particles in the canister soak up and store fuel vapors when the engine is not running. Then, when the engine is started, a "purge valve" opens to siphon the vapors into the engine where they are burned.

If the canister or any of its hose connections leak (or the gas cap does not seal tightly), fuel vapors can escape into the atmosphere around the clock. The amount of pollution can really add up, especially during hot weather, so it's important to make sure the system is functioning properly. The new OBD II test program includes a pressure check of the fuel tank system as well as a flow test of the purge valve.

My car failed an emissions test. Now what?

You try to figure out why it failed the test, get the problem fixed and then try to pass the test again. This may or may not be an ordeal depending on what's wrong with your engine, how easily the problem is to diagnose and repair, and whether or not you flunk a retest.

The worst case scenario is spending a lot of money on repairs only to find that they didn't solve your emissions problem. You bounce back and forth between the repair facility and test station, wasting time and money all the while cursing the incompetent mechanics who tried to fix your car and the bureaucrats who created the clean air emissions testing program.

But in states or municipalities where periodic emissions testing is required, you cannot get your vehicle registration or emissions compliance sticker unless you either pass the test or meet the "waiver" requirements.

A "waiver" is a kind of loophole that allows some vehicles to get past an emissions test even when they can't meet the applicable emission requirements. Some would argue this isn't fair to those whose vehicles meet the requirements and pass the test, but nobody said emissions testing was fair.

Waivers were created by politicians who recognized the fact that many people (voters) can't afford to pay for all the repairs that might be required to pass an emissions test. So credit is given for a good faith effort and for spending a fixed dollar amount on repairs. Once you've spent up to the limit, you get an automatic pass.

Waiver limits vary from one state to another, and some vary by the model year of vehicle. Waiver limits typically range from $75 up to $150, but may be as much as $450 on new vehicles in some states). So if you don't know what the applicable waiver limit is on your vehicle, ask. Unless you're a real zealot about clean air, there's no legal reason to spend a dime more than the waiver limit on emission repairs.

How To Improve Your Odds Of Passing An Emissions Test

The best way to improve the odds of passing an emissions test is to maintain your vehicle. A well-maintained engine is usually a clean engine as far as emissions are concerned.

Changing the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve and oil regularly (or just before an emissions test), checking ignition timing and adjusting the carburetor (if you have an older vehicle) can reduce emissions and greatly improve your chance of passing.

Also, filling up your fuel tank with gasoline that contains 10% ethanol alcohol (many premium grade fuels use alcohol as an octane booster) may help lower your emissions even more. Many areas now have "reformulated" gasoline that contains alcohol or MBTE that adds oxygen to the fuel to reduce carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions.

Just before the test, make sure your vehicle is at normal operating temperature. Take it out for a short spin down the expressway. This will heat up the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter to minimize emissions.

How can I find a competent mechanic to fix my car.

For starters, ask around. Ask your friends and people at work where they get their vehicles serviced. If they're happy with a certain repair facility or technician, then give that repair facility or technician a try. If they do good work and your satisfied with the results, then you've solved your problem.

If you don't get any specific recommendations or are reluctant to ask others for their advice, you can always look for the "ASE" logo. The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence conducts competency tests in many different areas of auto repair. To become certified in a repair specialty, a technicians must pass a tough written examination as well as meet minimum experience requirements. What's more, the technician must recertify every 5 years to keep his credentials. Those who pass the exams receive a wall certificate listing their areas of expertise, and and ASE emblem that can be worn on their uniform. Technicians who pass all eight ASE automotive tests become certified "Master Technicians."

Having a technician who is ASE certified work on your vehicle is no guarantee he won't foul up or try to cheat you. But your chances are probably better with an ASE certified technician than someone who doesn't take their profession seriously. Most ASE technicians see themselves as professionals and strive to do their best.